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    This article is not a start to finish build of a particular subject but rather a presentation of a technique using more than one example as illustrations.

    With the look of chipped paint on scale models hitting its stride as a modeling style, I thought I’d share a technique I’ve been using for several years. I don’t remember when it occurred to me to see if it would work and it’s entirely possible it’s already well known but I haven’t come across any mention of it. The examples included here are by no means the last word about the use of the process and I’m sure everyone who tries the technique will be able to push the limits in a unique way. It’s also not the answer to every situation but merely an option that is simple, fast and very inexpensive.

    I’ve become comfortable using “hair gel” to create random masking patterns for faded signage, rustic building walls, winter whitewash, sun baked tan over paint and well worn camouflage finishes.

    You may have some form of this product in your home already. If not, it’s easy to get from anywhere that sells personal grooming products. Brand name is not important. I’ve paid less than one dollar for a bottle and had no problems. The attribute you are looking for is thickness. The thickest gel is easiest to apply because it will immediately stay where you want it and not spread or run.

    The gel products are alcohol and water based so it’s important to keep this in mind when selecting your paint medium. In other words, the paint colors that you want to stay completely on the model need to be resistant to some scrubbing with water. Most acrylics have no problems with breaking down once they are dry but there are a couple of options to insure there is no chance of harming your first coat of color, or the color that is revealed by the worn away paint. In the case of the Kubelwagen, the panzer gray basecoat was applied using an aerosol can of dark gray primer that I think is a good match for the German color. The gray is impervious to water and scrubbing and it’s ready for the process as is. If your first coat of paint is water based and especially if it’s airbrushed, you can seal it with an overcoat of clear enamel aerosol and then start the process. It’s entirely up to you how tough you want to make each layer of paint.

    The steps are really just mimicking real life in that you will start with your “base coat” or first layer of paint and add subsequent layers of paint using the gel as a barrier where you don’t want the new color to cover. You can experiment with tools to apply the gel and everything from a fine tipped paintbrush to a sea sponge can be used with great effect. The process goes fairly quickly because the gel dries almost immediately as the alcohol evaporates. You can keep track of where you’re applying the gel by looking at the shiny reflection it leaves and by making sure it is put on in a heavy layer. It does no harm to put thick spots of gel and it protects the underlying paint best when it is thickly applied. You want to make sure you don’t start to wash away the gel mask when you apply your contrasting color so it’s best to use an aerosol or airbrush for your topcoat of color. Experimentation will pay off at this stage, as you may want to dry brush or dab paint with a brush or sponge. As long as the paint is not so wet as to degrade the mask, you will be in good shape. When the contrasting color is dry, you can seal it with a clear aerosol finish or leave as is. It’s at this point that the fun and rewards start. You can start to remove the paint by scrubbing with a wet brush. Warm water will help but it’s not necessary. You have some control with how wet your brush is and the water temperature. You can also cut the water with alcohol and in some instances straight alcohol may be desirable. Generally, it takes a few seconds for the effect to start but once it begins, progress is fairly rapid. Although I haven’t tried it, you could airbrush the model with warm water and “power wash” the color away if you have some delicate details that would be damaged by scrubbing with a brush. I’m sure each individual will develop a personal application of this process.

    The narrative is going to show specific projects but with all the examples, the technique is consistent. Good results depend upon a few factors, as I will describe now.

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